Up the BR-040 from Rio: cooler air, the former summer palace, and Itaipava — where Rio's old families have kept country houses for 150 years.
Petrópolis is where the carioca weekend started. Dom Pedro II built his summer palace here in the 1840s to escape Rio's heat, the court followed, and the habit has never broken.
Our Petrópolis book is concentrated in Itaipava and Araras — country estates on large plots, mountain houses with wood-burning fireplaces, and the occasional heritage townhouse in the centro histórico near the cathedral.